A TALE OF TWO LAS VEGAS MEALS, PART 1

We recently dined at Joel Robuchon in Las Vegas, the only Michelin three star on the west coast other than the French Laundry. We had high expectations. Our second night in Las Vegas we dined at B & B Ristorante, Mario Batali’s restaurant in the Venetian. We were expecting a decent, casual meal. At both restaurants we ordered the six course tasting menu with wine pairings. One experience far exceeded our expectations and the other fell short.

Upon making the Robuchon reservation we were told we’d be picked up in a gold limousine at 8pm in front of our hotel. A gold limo sounded a bit gauche at first, almost tacky, but it’s a clever marketing ploy to stand out in over-the-top Las Vegas. Not only does everyone in front of the hotel see it but it’s something people may mention to their friends.

The limo whisked us through the iron gates of the Mansion at MGM Grand, a separate secluded area of the casino. After spending several minutes in a library waiting area, and being gently scolded for wandering into a private “high roller courtyard,” we were led down a series of hallways and through the casino to the restaurant Joel Robuchon.

We were seated in the center of the room surrounded by solemn looking people speaking in hushed voices. The servers that greeted us spoke just above a whisper. After a couple minutes we requested a table on the garden terrace area, which turned out to be a great move. The terrace immediately had a less stuffy feel.

The experience started off well with a first course of crab and caviar. There wasn’t much else to it but with crab and caviar one doesn’t need much else. The lettuce soup that followed it was simple, perfectly seasoned and delicious. Unfortunately, as the courses progressed they became less and less enjoyable. The langoustine course was very overcooked and was followed by braised veal cheek in a green curry demi-glace that had become over reduced and congealed on the plate. It was cloyingly rich with an unbalanced spicy heat. At that point it had been three hours and we had yet to get the cheese course or dessert but we were ready to move on with the night.

Fortunately, our meal the next night was great.  I can still taste the Rabbit Porchetta with Fennel…more in Part 2.